Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Solo backpackin tour of Bangkok city:- backpacker Rudolph.a.Furtado.



On Saturday(24-12-2005) i had returned from my days tour of "Pattaya City", back to room no 562 in "Burapa hotel".It was Christmas Eve and the presence of a festive Christmas atmosphere was absolutely absent in Bangkok city, being a total "Buddhist Country".In my "walkathon" tours across the length and breadth of Bangkok city since Monday(19-12-2005), the day that i arrived from Hong Kong i have just spotted a single "Anglican Church" an indicator of the total absence of Christianity as a religion in this part of the globe.Woke up early on Sunday(25-12-2005) and had a local Thai "Dim-Sum" breakfast, a bowl of soup with various non-veg contents and a bowl of rice costing a total of 40 Baht.Began my walkathon city tour by first visiting the "Baiyoke Tower-2", the tallest building in Bangkok and also one of the World's ten tallest buildings in 2005.Surprisingly, at the basement shopping centre of one of the World's costliest and tallest building were "Hawker shops" akin to Mumbai's "Fashion street" selling cheap clothing and not "Designer Brands" as is normally the case in such posh and plush localities.Processed my "Photograph negatives" at "Makkason Photo Studio" just opposite to Indra Hotel next to Baiyoke Tower -2.Photography was one of the luxuries that i spent money, especially in the era of "Roll Photography" where the cost of "Photo reels", photo developing and printing were prohibitively expensive, a real luxury.A "Professional Photographer" if not in the "High-Income bracket" would be on "Poverty Income" akin to artists or unemployed actors. Hence, as a "Hobbyist Photographer" without a "Photography profession" an average estimation of expenditure on this costly hobby can be estimated through the numerous albums stored in my house.Photography is a hobby i must have inherited from my dad who did possess a variety of camera's during his younger years, his "Black & White" photo album capturing a time and era that is today history.
Tall Christmas tree outside " Siam Centre Plaza" ,the largest shopping mall in Bangkok.

Proceeded to "Siam Centre Plaza", a tourist and shopping plaza which had a huge decorated artificial Christmas tree near its entrance. Visited the "Siam Ocean world" which had  just opened a few day's ago on Friday(9/12/ 2005)  and after paying  a  entrance ticket of 550 Baht(Rs 600 approx) entered the largest aquarium complex in South East Asia. A beautiful indoor sea and fresh water aquarium whose main criteria is to provide education as well as visual entertainment of live fish species to visitors..
A " Moray eel " at Siam Ocean World Aquarium. Siam Ocean World is the largest aquarium in South East Asia .Hundreds of different fish species are on display.

Having previously visited "Ocean Park" a fortnight ago in Hong Kong and as comparisons are inevitable to any "Globe trotter", i was not very fascinated by "Siam world", the largest aquarium in South East Asia, an exact replica of "Ocean Park" in Hong Kong with some differences. Bangkok is really the cheapest tourist destination for a low tourist economy budget, offering the best of "First World Sightseeing" at economy rates and  no wonder its a craze as a tourist destination .Returned to my hotel and later proceeded to the "Royal Turf Club" at Ratchadamri road, a real shabby and poorly maintained race-course. Entrance to the race-course was 50 Baht(Rs 70 approx) and strangely Bangkok city has 2 race-courses akin to HongKong but the sport of horse-racing doesn't receive much patronage as was indicated by the maintenance and conduction of the races at the "Royal Bangkok Sports club racecourse".The "Royal Bangkok sports Club" has a "Golf Course" in the inner section of the race-tracks, akin to "Happy Valley racecourse" in Hongkong having various sports grounds within the race-track.The "Baiyoke Tower-2" overlooks the "Bangkok Royal turf racecourse" giving it a scenic view, but, the standard of racing is pathetic and no wonder "Bangkok race-horses" nor "Bangkok horse-racing" is absolutely unheard in the "Horse-racing World".
"Bangkok Royal Turf Race-course".
          There were hardly any tourists inside the race-course and it was dirty, badly maintained with hawker shops selling eatables and soft-drinks.Racing commentary was in "Thai Language" and i could follow the races only due to the horses numbers which was in English, besides, the horses run in "Anti-Clockwise direction" akin to American Racetracks, only the horse-racing is not of "American Standards".There is no "Paddock" in the race-course for parading the "race-horses" as is the International format in race-courses throughout the World, instead, the horses are paraded in a single file in front of the "Grandstand" akin to "Greyhound racing" just prior to a race. Another peculiarity of "Horse-racing" in Bangkok is that after loading all the horses into the "STARTING GATE", the horses are kept inside for approx 10 to 15 mins unlike in India or all over the World where the race starts as soon as the last horse is loaded into the "STARTING GATE" stall.Every punter , owner, trainer and jockeys understand the fact that "Race-Horses" are highly strung animals who get nervous and irritated if kept inside the enclosed starting gates for too long.Hence,this strange "Thai Custom" of conducting horse-racing baffles me, besides, i couldn't understand the commentary as it was in "Thai" nor were there any English speaking local punters to consult at the race-course.I bet on "Nos 1", the favourite in the 3rd race for a "Place" and it placed 2nd giving me a dividend of 11 Baht on a 10 Baht bet.Horse-racing tragedy occurred in the 4th race where horse nos 2 broke its left front foot ankle, the ankle dangling like a loose piece of twig, a pathetic sight of a magnificent beast.Bizarrely, instead of euthanising the horse by shooting or directly injecting it with a lethal dose the poor beast was kept alive for approx 1/2 hour with blood samples being removed while it was alive, its syce handling the horse which strangely didn't show any signs of pain or fear.Later it gradually fell to the ground after a final dosage of lethal injection, an unforgettable pathetic sight, reminding me of the "Great Secret" tragedy at the Pune Derby races during my racing career hobby as a punter.
At the Bangkok race-course.
Bangkpok's famous "STREET FOOD".
Entrance to the Lumpinee Boxing Stadium in Bangkok.Thai Boxing.

After an unforgettable day at the "Bangkok Race-Course" i went to the Ratchadamnoen stadium to witness "Thai Boxing" but the ticket admission rates gave a "technical knockout" to my "Backpackers budget", the tickets being in the range of 2000 to 3000 Baht(Rs 2600 to Rs 3500 approx), besides, the commentary was in "Thai language".I did an about-turn from the "Ratchadamnoen Stadium" and made my way towards "Dusit Zoo" located outside the Royal Plaza and Bangkok's oldest zoo.The "Dusit Zoo's" upkeep was similar to Mumbai's "Veermata Jeejabai Bhosle Udyan(Victoria Garden)", only difference is that it had a larger species of wild-life and birds.Compared to Bangkok's latest open air zoo of International standards,"Safari World", this zoo looked pathetic and shabby.Strolled around the precincts of the Dusit zoo, reminiscing my days of strolling around Victoria gardens in the 1970's as a teenager,the zoo being just walking distance from my home and a "Second Home" in Mumbai ,learning and observing the rudiments of nature and wild-life behavior.Towards the evening on inquiries about some exciting "Adda's(hindi slang for "Hangout joints")" with local Thai's through my guide maps and literature i was told to visit the "Banglampoo locality" of Bangkok, a hideout of foreign tourists and back-packers.The festive "Christmas atmosphere" was in full swing when i reached Banglampoo locality with the help of a "Tuk-Tuk(Autorickshaw)", the street resembling HongKong's "Chungking" locality, an amalgamation of foreign tourists from various country's, including me from India.There were roadside eateries and revelers dancing to the tune of "RAVE MUSIC" played on loudspeakers near the eateries and beer pubs.Banglampoo is a cheap tourist residential locality in Bangkok akin to Colaba in Mumbai and the tourists were "High" on booze as well as other substances and i parked myself near a pub/eatery ordering cocktail drinks and listening to "Rave Music".A Eurasian Canadian man in his sixties picked up a conversation with me and i was surprised at his fluency in "Hindi Language" and astonished at knowing that he acted in some "Firang roles" as an extra in some Kamalhassan film when on tour in India.He sported a complex configuration of tattoo's which consisted of "Mother Teresa","Che Guevera" and "Mahatma Gandhi" besides having "shoulder length" Willy Nelson type hairstyle.Wonder how Hollywood missed him in their auditions for the film Industry? There was continuous dancing on the streets and the crowd was a combination of back-packers, tourists and locals, something to be experienced.Honestly, "Back-Packing" although risky, is the only way to study and understand the culture and way of living in any Country, city or town compared to "Guided Packaged Tours" or "5-Star executive business travels".Had a late night dinner at "Pannee Guest house" in Banglampoo consisting of roasted Thai Fish and fried rice along with "Singha beer",Bangkok's popular local beer.Left Banglampoo locality at approx 2330 hrs, happily tipsy on conversations,rave music, dance, beer and local food.Caught a "Tuk-Tuk" and reached "Burapa Hotel", my last day in Bangkok as i was to depart to Mumbai on Monday(26-12-2005).
Relishing a classic Bangkok sea food  of "Mussels" with Singa beer near "Burappa Hotel"

Got up early on Monday morning and as usual went for a morning walk close to Burapa hotel near the local bazaars with a major problem being not able to either understand or speak Thai language.Strangely. although Bangkok and Thailand receive a lot of tourists very few local Thai's speak or understand English language, the common link language of the World.During my shipping employment i had toured Korea and Japan, country's where English is hardly spoken and yet managed my way alone in these city's ,even traveling by public transport as the "Sign Boards" were usually also in English and most of the locals could guide a visitor.Later in the morning i visited the "GRAND PALACE", the huge palace complex resembling the "Mysore Palace" in India.The Grand Palace has its entire walls depicting the "Ramayana" and the triumph of good over evil.Dress code was important and visitors with "Shorts" or "revealing dresses" were not allowed inside the "Palace Complex".The most important attraction of the "Grand Palace" is the "Emerald Buddha", one of the Country's most religious sites.Visitors are allowed into the "Emerald Buddha palace temple", but, as mentioned have to observe certain norms and etiquette.After visiting the entire "Grand Palace" and its Pagoda's i realized that Bangkok is a city of unexplainable paradoxes where devout religious and non-violence monks survive in the same city that also is home to one of the Word's largest "Pornographic and Fire arms" Industry.Returned to my hotel in the afternoon from the "Grand Palace" and after some rest and a shower ,checked out my luggage at 1430hrs depositing it at the hotel "Check-in/out Counter" to avoid paying extra charges since i was leaving in the evening.Proceeded towards "China Town" another quaint locality of Bangkok housing cheap garment, jewelery and eatery shops.Visited "Old Siam shopping centre", a huge mall with a bit of the "Old world Charm" unlike most modern shopping malls.On my return to "Burapa hotel" had dinner at a roadside cafeteria,consisting of "Mussle and squid" along with "Singa Beer". Bangkok has a lot of "7/11 shops" in various localities which are open 24 hrs and have all grocery products including alcoholic beverages. Arrived at my hotel, collected the luggage, boarded a taxi at 2030 hrs to "Bangkok Airport" arriving early at the airport. Checked into the airport terminal at 2200 hrs and after the normal custom departure formalities entered the "Duty Free lounge", window-shopping various products. Strangely, observed some liquor brands like "Johnny Walker Black Label" costing 999 Baht along with a free complimentary "T-Shirt" at the "7/11 shop" in Bangkok city much cheaper than at the "Duty Free Shop" which cost 1020 Baht without any free complementaries! Finally purchased "2 Chivas Regal" whisky bottles along with a "Johnny walker Red Label" getting free complementaries of a "Chivas Regal Carry Bag" and a lottery contest form for the "World Cup cricket Match".Spent the last of my "Thai Baht Currency" at the departure lounge restaurant, relishing a giant mug of cold drought beer. Later, boarded the "Cathay Pacific aircraft" and reached Mumbai at 0336 hrs on Tuesday(27-12-2005), checking out through "Customs" and reaching my home in Vaibhav apartments. Thus a memorable, adventurous and "Money Strenuous" solo backpackers tour of Hong Kong and Bangkok had come to an end, with just memories and experience to cherish and record for posterior.

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